Tree Planting: Choosing, Placing & Caring for New Trees

A well-placed, properly planted tree can provide shade, privacy, wildlife habitat, and curb appeal for generations. A poorly chosen or poorly planted tree can become a constant headache—lifting sidewalks, blocking views, or struggling to survive.

This guide covers the full lifecycle of planting: from picking the right tree for your site to installing it at the correct depth, watering it in, and caring for it through the critical establishment years. Whether you’re planting yourself or using our professional tree planting services, these are the principles we follow on every job.

Quick checklist: before you plant

Before digging any holes, make sure you’ve:

• Selected a tree that fits your space at mature size
• Checked for overhead lines, underground utilities, and structures
• Confirmed sun, soil, and drainage conditions suit the species
• Planned for watering in the first 1–3 years
• Called 811 or appropriate utility locate service before digging

Taking time up front can prevent expensive corrections later—like premature removal or hardscape repairs.

1. Choosing the right tree for your site

Not every tree belongs in every spot. A good match between species and site is the single most important factor in long-term success.

Key considerations include:

• Mature size: How tall and wide will the tree get? Will it hit wires, eaves, or crowd other trees?
• Sun exposure: Is the spot full sun, part shade, or mostly shade? Some species burn in hot afternoon sun; others need it to thrive.
• Soil & drainage: Does water drain quickly or linger? Certain trees tolerate wet roots; others demand excellent drainage.
• Purpose: Are you planting for shade, screening, fall color, flowers, or habitat?

If you’re not sure which species will thrive on your property, our team can recommend options based on your goals, site conditions, and local climate.

2. Where to plant: clearance, utilities, and future growth

Once you’ve chosen a tree, the next step is choosing the exact spot. A few feet one way or the other can make a big difference over the life of the tree.

When picking a location, think about:

• Clearance from houses, garages, fences, and sheds
• Distance from driveways, sidewalks, and patios (to minimize root conflicts)
• Overhead lines, streetlights, and rooflines
• Access for future pruning or removals if needed

Aim to give the tree enough room to reach its natural shape without constant severe pruning or “topping” to keep it out of the way.

3. Preparing the planting hole

A common mistake is digging a hole that’s too deep and too narrow. Trees like wide, shallow planting holes that encourage roots to spread outward.

Basic guidelines:

• Dig the hole 2–3 times as wide as the root ball or container
• Keep the depth so the root flare (where trunk widens at the base) will sit at or slightly above soil level
• Loosen the sides of the hole if soil is compacted, but avoid glazing slick surfaces
• Remove rocks, construction debris, or large roots from the immediate area

Avoid adding heavy fertilizers or making the hole overly rich compared to the surrounding soil—roots need to move out into native soil, not stay in a “pot” in the ground.

4. Setting the tree at the right depth

Planting too deep is one of the most common reasons new trees struggle. The root flare should be visible above the final soil grade, not buried.

When you’re ready to set the tree:

• Remove the container or cut away burlap and wire from the top and sides of the root ball
• Gently loosen circling roots so they’re not wrapped tightly around the trunk
• Place the tree in the hole and check from multiple angles that it’s straight
• Confirm the root flare will end up slightly above the surrounding soil once backfilled

Take your time at this stage—adjusting depth is much easier before you start backfilling.

5. Backfilling and watering in

Once the tree is positioned, it’s time to backfill the hole and remove air pockets so roots have good contact with the soil.

Good backfill practices include:

• Using mostly native soil, breaking up large clods as you go
• Firming soil gently in layers—don’t stomp hard and compact it
• Stopping halfway to water thoroughly, then finishing backfill
• Creating a shallow watering basin around the tree to hold water where it’s needed

After planting, water deeply to settle the soil. The goal is to moisten the entire root ball and surrounding soil without turning it into a swamp.

6. Mulch: your new tree’s best friend

A simple ring of mulch does a lot for a new tree: it helps conserve moisture, moderates soil temperature, and keeps mowers and string trimmers away from the trunk.

Mulch basics:

• Use wood chips or shredded bark in a ring at least 2–3 feet wide if space allows
• Apply mulch 2–4 inches deep, never piled against the trunk
• Keep a small “donut” of bare soil right at the base of the trunk
• Refresh and widen the mulch ring as the tree grows

Avoid “volcano mulching”—those tall piles right up against the trunk—which can lead to rot, pests, and girdling roots.

7. Staking: when it helps and when it doesn’t

Many trees never need staking. In fact, trees that move slightly in the wind often develop stronger trunks and root systems than trees held rigidly in place.

Staking may be appropriate when:

• The site is very windy or exposed
• The root ball is small relative to the height of the tree
• Soil is very loose and can’t hold the tree upright yet

Best practices if you do stake:

• Use 2–3 stakes placed outside the root ball, not right next to the trunk
• Attach flexible ties that allow some movement without rubbing the bark
• Check ties regularly and adjust as the tree grows
• Plan to remove stakes within 1–2 growing seasons in most cases

8. Watering and early care in the first 1–3 years

The first few years after planting are all about root establishment. Your watering habits during this period will make or break the tree’s long-term health.

General guidelines (adjusted for weather and soil):

• Water deeply but infrequently—aim for slow soaking, not daily light sprinkling
• Check soil moisture 4–6 inches down before watering again
• Increase watering in extreme heat and reduce during cool, rainy periods
• Avoid heavy fertilization in the first year unless recommended

Integrating your new tree into a quarterly & seasonal tree care plan can help you stay ahead of watering, mulching, and pruning needs.

9. First pruning and building good structure

Most young trees need only minimal pruning at planting time—just dead, broken, or rubbing branches. Structural pruning comes later as the tree becomes established.

Early pruning goals include:

• Encouraging one main central leader on most shade trees
• Developing strong branch attachments with good spacing
• Removing competing or crossing branches before they become large
• Leaving enough leaf area for strong growth and root development

Our Pruning Basics guide covers timing and techniques; for many homeowners, having a professional handle the first few structural prunings is a smart investment.

Plant once, enjoy for decades

Planting a tree the right way takes a little more planning and care—but the payoff is huge. With a good species choice, proper planting, and attentive early care, your tree is far more likely to grow into a healthy, stable, and low-maintenance part of your landscape.

If you’d like help selecting species, planning locations, or handling the planting work itself, Bay Area Tree Care can provide end-to-end tree planting services, and then support your new trees with ongoing maintenance and seasonal checkups.